Beach Bounty

Bali beaches need a serious cleanup. How hard can it be to hire a couple of people to pick up candy wrappers and tubs of face cream that are floating near the shore? Yet, in spite of the not-nearly-blue water and beach litter, there were still signs of pretty ocean life.

A coconut that had washed up on the beach, the outer skin soft and nearly waterlogged. I threw it repeatedly against some rocks, cracked it open, and filled half a pet bottle with coconut water. Alas, the hotel staff warned me against drinking it, and rightly so: one cautious sip and it was clear it had gone sour.